1. In terms of heat insulation performance, metal films significantly outperform ceramic films. Metal films are made from various precious metals using advanced processes like magnetron sputtering, allowing for selective passage of light. Conversely, ceramic films, composed of ceramic materials, may produce secondary heat radiation when the ceramic layer reaches thermal saturation. Consequently, metal films provide superior heat insulation compared to ceramic films.

2. From the perspective of light transmission, metal films tend to have darker colors, resulting in reduced transparency but offering better privacy. Ceramic films, on the other hand, feature lighter colors, allowing for more light transmission but providing somewhat weaker privacy. For car owners who frequently drive at night, opting for ceramic films can be a practical choice, as it aids in better visibility during nighttime road conditions.

VLT=light transmittance, UVR=ultraviolet rejection rate, IRR=infrared rejection rate. To put it simply, the primary focus should be on maximizing the values of the two dash lines, which are UVR and IRR, while Visible Light Transmittance can be adjusted according to individual preferences.

When selecting a front windshield film for your car, it's important to consider the following factors:

A. Avoid Excessive Heat-Reflective Films:

Highly heat-reflective front windshield films are typically made from multiple layers of metallic materials that use metal components to reflect solar heat. The higher the heat-reflectivity, the more metal content is usually present. While this enhances heat insulation, it often comes with various negative issues. For instance, it can interfere with mobile phone signals or disrupt the normal use of GPS systems. Additionally, films with high metal content tend to be thicker, making installation more challenging.

B. Darker Tint Doesn't Mean Better Heat Insulation:

Front windshield films must allow over 70% light transmission to ensure safe driving. If the film tint is too dark or too deep, it can lead to prolonged visual fatigue for the driver and increase the risk of traffic accidents, especially during nighttime driving.

C. Avoid Excessive Reflectivity:

If the front windshield film has high reflectivity, it can cause mirror-like reflections on the windshield when there is light inside the vehicle (such as reading lights or dashboard illumination) during nighttime driving. This directly affects the driver's ability to see the road and can lead to traffic accidents.

D. Ensure High Clarity:

Front windshield films vary in material quality, and lower-quality materials may exhibit varying degrees of wave-like patterns or an orange peel texture. This can create a sensation of waviness in the scenery while driving. Prolonged exposure to such conditions can lead to visual blurring, dizziness, reduced vision, nausea, and discomfort. Therefore, high clarity is a primary criterion when selecting a front windshield film.

1. In order to ensure that the car film and the glass are completely adhered after the film is applied, the car film cannot be cleaned and the defogging line switch cannot be turned on within a week. Try not to let the sun directly expose the glass, which will cause blistering. You should turn on the air conditioner in the car to allow air to circulate inside and outside. The breathability of the car film itself will form a natural solidification to ensure that the glue and the glass are completely combined after the car film is installed. , in order to form a safe and explosion-proof effect.
2. After applying the film, a little moisture will inevitably remain between the car film and the glass, which may cause small bubbles or slight ripples, resulting in blurred vision. This is normal. After being exposed to the sun, it will disappear naturally after 4 to 10 weeks. If the obvious phenomenon still exists after a period of time, be careful not to handle it without authorization. You should find a professional technician to handle it.
3. When cleaning the glass, it is forbidden to use solvents with high acidity and alkalinity for cleaning, and try not to let oily liquids such as leather oil get on the car film. You can use clean water or non-acidity and alkalinity cleaning fluids on the market. Most glass cleaners work well for cleaning car film. A more suitable cleaning solution for car films is a 10:1 dilution of water and household detergent.
4. The surface hardening of the car film is limited. To avoid scratching the car film, do not use any cleaning supplies with hard particles such as brushes and sandpaper. It is correct to use a soft cloth or sponge to clean the surface of the car film. Clean the cloth outside the car body, and do not use it to wipe the car film, because the cloth used outside the car body is easy to contain fine sand, which is also one of the factors that cause scratches on the car film.

Imibimbi ebusweni befilimu ingenzeka ngesikhathi somiswa nokuphulukiswa kwefilimu. Ngokuvamile kunezinhlobo ezintathu zokushwabana: imibimbi eyenzeka ngesikhathi kufakwa ifilimu okokuqala, imibimbi yobuhlalu eyenzeka lapho kufakwa ifilimu ngokuphindaphindiwe, kanye nemibimbi ebangelwa isenzo samagesi ane-asidi ngaphakathi kuhhavini.

Ngemuva kokuthi ifilimu ifakwe engilazini eyisicaba, ukukhanya okudluliswayo kwefilimu kanye nengilazi kuzoba ngaphansi kunaleyo yengilazi emsulwa yoqobo. Zonke izindinganiso zokuhlola izinga kufanele zisekelwe ekungabikho kwamaphutha engilazini ngokwayo.

Njengoba ama-solvents asetshenziswa ngesikhathi sokufakwa, kuzothatha isikhathi esithile ukuze ifilimu ifakwe ngokugcwele ngemva kokusetshenziswa. Nakuba amanye amanzi engabonakali, ahlala ephakathi kwefilimu nengilazi. Ukunamathela okuphelele kwefilimu kubuye kubizwe ngokuthi "isikhathi sokumisa ifilimu". Njengoba ifilimu yoma, i-viscosity yeglue izokhula kancane kancane. Ijubane lokomisa ifilimu linobudlelwano obuthile nobukhulu befilimu nokuqukethwe kwensimbi. Izici zesimo sezulu nazo zinomthelela ekutheni ifilimu yoma ngokushesha kangakanani.

Ngaphambi kokuba ifilimu yome ngokuphelele, ukuhlolwa kwekhwalithi ye-optical kungenziwa. Kufanele kuqashelwe ukuthi ezinye izenzakalo ngaphambi kokuba ifilimu yome ngokuphelele, njengamabhamuza, ukuwohloka kwesithombe sezinto ngenxa yamanzi, nenkungu yamanzi, konke kuyizinto ezivamile.

Ukuhlolwa kwamehlo enqunu kwengilazi eqoshiwe kufanele kube kusuka endlini kuye ngaphandle futhi kusuka engeli efanele, futhi ibanga kufanele libe phakathi kwamamitha angu-2. Ukuhlolwa kufanele kwenziwe ngaphansi kokukhanya okujwayelekile kwemvelo emini futhi akufanele kubekwe ilanga ngqo. Indawo yokuhlola kufanele ibe phakathi kuka-5 cm ukusuka kuhlaka lwengilazi.

Ukufakwa kuzobhekwa njengokufanelekile uma zingekho izimo ezilandelayo (ngaphandle kwezimo ezivamile ezenzeka phakathi nenqubo yokomiswa kwefilimu): udoti, izinwele nemicu, i-glue agglomeration, izigxivizo zeminwe, amabhamuza, imihuzuko kanye nokuqhekeka kwefilimu, nokuguqulwa komzimba wefilimu. , amabala kawoyela efilimu, imiphetho esontekile yefilimu, nezimpawu zommese. Ukutholwa okungenhla kufanele kwenziwe phakathi namahora angu-24 ngemva kokufakwa.

Kudingeka izinyathelo eziningi zokuzivikela ngesikhathi sokwakhiwa kwefilimu yefasitela yemoto ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuphepha kwenqubo yokwakha nokuvikela ukubukeka kanye nemishini yangaphakathi yemoto. Nazi ezinye izinyathelo zokuvikela ezibalulekile:

1. Faka amaphedi okuvikela ngaphambili nangemuva nezinye izindawo ukuze uvikele upende wemoto ukuthi ungaklwebheki phakathi nenqubo yokwakha.

2. Sebenzisa isembozo sokuvikela sepulasitiki esilahlwayo ngaphakathi komnyango ukuvimbela uketshezi lokufaka olufuthwe lapho ugcoba ifilimu yefasitela ekungcoleni umnyango, phansi kanye nezihlalo.

3. Vikela ukuphuma komoya kwe-air conditioner ngesikhathi sokwakhiwa ukuze uvimbele uketshezi lokufaka ukuthi lungagelezi endaweni yokuphuma, ngaleyo ndlela ugweme ukwehluleka kwesifunda esifushane sezinto zikagesi nezipikha emotweni ngenxa yomswakama.


Ukwengeza, kunezinye izidingo ezihlobene nefilimu yefasitela ngokwayo:

1. Akufanele kube neziphambeko eziningi kakhulu kwifilimu yefasitela, futhi akufanele kube nama-creases, ama-bubbles noma ama-scratches endaweni yefilimu.

2. Phezulu kwefasitela elehliselwa phansi, igebe elincane lika-1-2mm kufanele ligcinwe ukuze kube lula ukubhekwa okungalungile futhi kungabonakali kalula.

3. Ifilimu yefasitela kufanele imboze indawo emnyama ecwebezelayo yohlaka lwengilazi ukuze kuqinisekiswe ukuthi akukho ukukhanya okuphumayo. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, akufanele kube khona ukugoqa ukuze kugcinwe ukubukeka okuhle nokuhlelekile.

Ngokwendlela yokuhlukanisa amafilimu engilazi yi-International Glass Film Association (IWFA), amafilimu ezingilazi zezimoto angahlukaniswa abe izinhlobo ezintathu eziyisisekelo.:

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1. Ifilimu yokudaya (engabonisi, isho ukuvezwa kwemisebe ye-infrared). Lolu hlobo lwefilimu aluqukethe ungqimba lwensimbi futhi alunawo umsebenzi wokubonisa imisebe ye-infrared. Inokulawula ukukhanya kanye nemisebenzi ethile yokuvikela ukushisa. Idlala ikakhulukazi indima yokushisa ukushisa ngokumunca amandla elanga bese iwakhiphela ngaphandle. Ukusebenza kahle kwe-thermal insulation kuphansi kakhulu kunaleyo yefilimu ekhanyayo.

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2. Ifilimu eyinhlanganisela yefilimu yokudaya kanye nefilimu ye-vacuum metallization (reflection) ibizwa ngefilimu esebenza kahle kakhulu embonini. Le filimu esebenza kahle kakhulu ivamise ukwakhiwa ungqimba lwefilimu yokudaya ngobuningi kanye nongqimba lwefilimu ye-vacuum aluminized. Uma iqhathaniswa namafilimu adayiwe angabonisi ukukhanya, inokudlulisa ukukhanya okubonakalayo okuphezulu kanye nezinga eliphezulu lokuvikela ukushisa. Kodwa-ke, ungqimba oludayiwe luzohlakaza ukukhanya, lubangele ukuhlanekezela okubonakalayo, ngakho ukucaca kuphansi. Umehluko.

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3. Magnetron sputtering metal film (reflection), eyaziwa nangokuthi ifilimu yensimbi emsulwa. Lena ifilimu enezinga eliphezulu lobuchwepheshe bokukhiqiza ifilimu yengilazi. Le filimu isebenzisa inqubo ye-magnetron sputtering ukuze imboze i-substrate yefilimu ngongqimba lwezimbotshana ze-ion zensimbi ezinokukhanya okuphezulu kakhulu kwe-infrared. Izinsimbi ezisetshenziswayo ngokuvamile ithusi, insimbi engagqwali, nickel-chromium alloy, njll. Umbala wefilimu unqunywa ngokuphelele ngensimbi ehlanganisiwe.

Ukwakhiwa kabusha kwemisebenzi yefilimu yamafasitela emoto kwaholela esizukulwaneni sokuqala sobuchwepheshe bokunamathela kanye nenhlanganisela ngeminyaka yawo-1960, evame ukwaziwa ngefilimu yephepha letiye. Umsebenzi oyinhloko walolu hlobo lwefilimu ukuvimbela ukukhanya futhi ngokuyisisekelo ayifaki insulate. Njengezibuko zelanga, ingashintsha kuphela umbono wokukhanya obonakalayo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukucaca kwefilimu yephepha letiye kuphansi kakhulu, futhi iphunga le-formaldehyde libi kakhulu. Ilungele kuphela izimoto zabagibeli, izimba, njll., ezisetshenziselwa ukufaka izimpahla.



Isizukulwane sesibili yifilimu edayiwe esebenzisa inqubo yokudaya. Lolu hlobo lwe-membrane lwakhiqizwa ngawo-1970. Iningi lolwelwesi olukhona njengamanje emakethe luyizinqubo zokudaya ezijulile. Indlela yokudaya ejulile isetshenziselwa ukwengeza izinto ezibamba ukushisa ukuze zimunce imisebe ye-infrared elangeni ukuze kuzuzwe umphumela wokuvikela ukushisa. Ngenxa yokuthi iphinde ibambe ukukhanya okubonakalayo, ukukhanya okubonakalayo akwanele. Ngokuhambisana nemikhawulo yenqubo yokudaya ngokwayo, ukucaca kuncane kakhulu. Okunye okubi kakhulu kwefilimu edayiwe ukuthi umsebenzi wayo wokufaka ukufudumala ubola ngokushesha, futhi kulula ukufiphala. Amafilimu amaningi adayiwe ngeke aphele kuphela ngemva konyaka nesigamu, kodwa ngeke esakwazi ukugqunywa futhi angase abe namabhamuza, okuthinta kabi ukubukeka okubonakalayo. Lolu hlobo lwefilimu lufaneleka ngokukhethekile ukuhlolwa kokufakwa kokushisa osheshayo. Izitolo ze-4S zivame ukusebenzisa isici samafilimu adayiwe ukumunca ukushisa ngokushesha ukuze akhohlise amakhasimende, ngakho amafilimu adayiwe aphansi athunyelwa izitolo ze-4S akumele anikezwe.

There are several key technical aspects and knowledge related to safety glass film and explosion-proof film:

1. Weather Resistance Treatment: PET-based films can soften and deform at high temperatures (around +50°C) and may freeze and crack at low temperatures (around -10°C). However, with advanced weather resistance treatment, PET-based films can maintain their physical and chemical properties in a wide temperature range, from -70°C to +150°C. This makes them suitable for use in various environmental conditions.

2. Original Color Body Film Technology: These films use PET substrates made from original color body resin, ensuring that they do not fade over time. The even distribution of these resin molecules contributes to excellent visibility through the film.

3. Magnetron Sputtering Metal Coating Technology: Magnetron sputtering is a process that takes place in a large vacuum chamber with low pressure and inert gas. It involves bombarding various metal or alloy targets with charged ions, causing metal atoms to accumulate on the surface of a PET substrate. This process creates films with unique and stable colors, high levels of light transmission selectivity, and excellent sunlight control properties.

4. Pressure-Sensitive Adhesive Electromagnetic Treatment Layer Technology: The pressure-sensitive adhesive layer undergoes electromagnetic treatment. This layer responds to pressure even before it is applied to the glass, allowing the adhesive molecules to reorganize and form a protective layer. When pressure is applied, the adhesive rebounds, significantly increasing the strength of the glass. This feature provides impact resistance and helps prevent glass from shattering upon impact.

There are four main types of window films:

Dyed Films: These films originated in the 1930s and were primarily designed to block intense sunlight. Dyed films do not provide significant heat reduction and are mainly used for glare reduction.

Dyed Hybrid Films: Introduced in the 1960s, these films use deep-dyeing techniques and incorporate heat-absorbing agents to reduce heat. While they do provide some heat rejection, they also absorb visible light, leading to lower visible light transmission and reduced clarity. These films can deteriorate over time and tend to fade, but they are relatively affordable.

Vacuum Coated Films: Emerging in the early 1990s, vacuum-coated films use advanced technology to evaporate layers of metals onto a substrate to achieve heat rejection. While these films offer better and longer-lasting heat reduction compared to dyed films, they may compromise clarity and can have higher reflectivity, which can affect visibility.

Sputtered or Metalized Films: The most advanced type of window film, sputtered or metalized films, emerged in the late 1990s and have seen continuous technological improvements. These films utilize a process called sputtering, which evenly deposits metal particles like nickel, silver, titanium, or gold onto a high-tension PET substrate using a sophisticated multi-chamber, high-speed rotating system. Sputtered films provide excellent heat rejection, low reflectivity, and long-lasting color stability. They also maintain high clarity, making them the top choice for high-quality window films.

Misunderstanding 1: Choose dark film
When people choose solar film, in order to obtain better thermal insulation effect and good privacy, they often choose dark-colored solar film. In fact, ordinary "black paper membrane" and "tea paper" are not insulated at all. The thermal insulation effect of the membrane is determined by whether the membrane contains an insulation layer. Although the professional film is light in color, it can block 700 watts of heat under the scorching sun (solar radiation is 900 watts/square meter), while the low-end dark film can only block 300 watts of heat. At present, the films produced in Southeast Asia are basically glue-dyed films. Compared with the metallized films produced in the United States, just like black and white TVs compared to color TVs, the thermal insulation performance is very different.


Misunderstanding 2: Apply two layers of film
Applying two layers of film usually causes the following two problems. First of all, the adhesive design of the film is for sticking on glass, which cannot guarantee the perfect bond between the two layers of film. Secondly, the second film may immediately stick to the first film, leaving no time to squeeze out the moisture. Usually, applying two layers of film is easy to produce bubbles and water pockets, and these will become larger and more numerous over time. In fact, if you need to apply film to make your home darker, you can choose a film with low light transmittance instead of applying two layers.


Misunderstanding 3: Look for the infrared blocking rate
95% infrared blocking rate means 95% heat insulation? This is a wrong concept. Only 53% of the sun's radiant heat comes from infrared rays, another 3% comes from ultraviolet rays, and 44% comes from visible light. So even if a film can block 100% of infrared radiant heat, there is still 47% of solar radiant heat to deal with.