1. In terms of heat insulation performance, metal films significantly outperform ceramic films. Metal films are made from various precious metals using advanced processes like magnetron sputtering, allowing for selective passage of light. Conversely, ceramic films, composed of ceramic materials, may produce secondary heat radiation when the ceramic layer reaches thermal saturation. Consequently, metal films provide superior heat insulation compared to ceramic films.

2. From the perspective of light transmission, metal films tend to have darker colors, resulting in reduced transparency but offering better privacy. Ceramic films, on the other hand, feature lighter colors, allowing for more light transmission but providing somewhat weaker privacy. For car owners who frequently drive at night, opting for ceramic films can be a practical choice, as it aids in better visibility during nighttime road conditions.

VLT=light transmittance, UVR=ultraviolet rejection rate, IRR=infrared rejection rate. To put it simply, the primary focus should be on maximizing the values of the two dash lines, which are UVR and IRR, while Visible Light Transmittance can be adjusted according to individual preferences.

When selecting a front windshield film for your car, it's important to consider the following factors:

A. Avoid Excessive Heat-Reflective Films:

Highly heat-reflective front windshield films are typically made from multiple layers of metallic materials that use metal components to reflect solar heat. The higher the heat-reflectivity, the more metal content is usually present. While this enhances heat insulation, it often comes with various negative issues. For instance, it can interfere with mobile phone signals or disrupt the normal use of GPS systems. Additionally, films with high metal content tend to be thicker, making installation more challenging.

B. Darker Tint Doesn't Mean Better Heat Insulation:

Front windshield films must allow over 70% light transmission to ensure safe driving. If the film tint is too dark or too deep, it can lead to prolonged visual fatigue for the driver and increase the risk of traffic accidents, especially during nighttime driving.

C. Avoid Excessive Reflectivity:

If the front windshield film has high reflectivity, it can cause mirror-like reflections on the windshield when there is light inside the vehicle (such as reading lights or dashboard illumination) during nighttime driving. This directly affects the driver's ability to see the road and can lead to traffic accidents.

D. Ensure High Clarity:

Front windshield films vary in material quality, and lower-quality materials may exhibit varying degrees of wave-like patterns or an orange peel texture. This can create a sensation of waviness in the scenery while driving. Prolonged exposure to such conditions can lead to visual blurring, dizziness, reduced vision, nausea, and discomfort. Therefore, high clarity is a primary criterion when selecting a front windshield film.

1. In order to ensure that the car film and the glass are completely adhered after the film is applied, the car film cannot be cleaned and the defogging line switch cannot be turned on within a week. Try not to let the sun directly expose the glass, which will cause blistering. You should turn on the air conditioner in the car to allow air to circulate inside and outside. The breathability of the car film itself will form a natural solidification to ensure that the glue and the glass are completely combined after the car film is installed. , in order to form a safe and explosion-proof effect.
2. After applying the film, a little moisture will inevitably remain between the car film and the glass, which may cause small bubbles or slight ripples, resulting in blurred vision. This is normal. After being exposed to the sun, it will disappear naturally after 4 to 10 weeks. If the obvious phenomenon still exists after a period of time, be careful not to handle it without authorization. You should find a professional technician to handle it.
3. When cleaning the glass, it is forbidden to use solvents with high acidity and alkalinity for cleaning, and try not to let oily liquids such as leather oil get on the car film. You can use clean water or non-acidity and alkalinity cleaning fluids on the market. Most glass cleaners work well for cleaning car film. A more suitable cleaning solution for car films is a 10:1 dilution of water and household detergent.
4. The surface hardening of the car film is limited. To avoid scratching the car film, do not use any cleaning supplies with hard particles such as brushes and sandpaper. It is correct to use a soft cloth or sponge to clean the surface of the car film. Clean the cloth outside the car body, and do not use it to wipe the car film, because the cloth used outside the car body is easy to contain fine sand, which is also one of the factors that cause scratches on the car film.

Beim Trocknen und Aushärten der Folie können Falten auf der Folienoberfläche entstehen. Im Allgemeinen gibt es drei Arten von Falten: Falten, die beim ersten Aufbringen der Folie entstehen, Wulstfalten, die bei wiederholter Aufbringung der Folie entstehen, und Falten, die durch die Einwirkung saurer Gase im Ofen entstehen.

After a film is applied to flat glass, the overall light transmittance of the film plus glass will be lower than that of the original pure glass. All quality inspection standards should be based on the absence of defects in the glass itself.
Since solvents are used during installation, it will take a certain amount of time for the film to be fully attached after it is applied. Although some water cannot be seen, it still remains between the film and the glass. The complete adhesion of the film is also commonly referred to as the "film drying time". As the film dries, the viscosity of the glue will gradually increase. The speed of the film drying has a certain relationship with the thickness of the film and the metal content. Weather factors also have an impact on how quickly the film dries.
Before the film is completely dry, inspection of optical quality can be performed. It should be noted that some phenomena before the film is completely dry, such as blisters, image deformation of objects due to water, and water mist, are all normal phenomena.
The naked eye inspection of filmed glass should be from indoors to outdoors and from the correct angle, and the distance should be within 2 meters. The inspection should be conducted under normal natural light during the day and should not be directly exposed to the sun. The inspection area should be within 5 cm from the glass frame.
The installation will be considered qualified if there are no following conditions (except for normal phenomena that occur during the film drying process): debris, hair and fibers, glue agglomeration, fingerprints, bubbles, scratches and cracks in the film, and film body deformation , oil stains in the film, warped edges of the film, and knife marks. The above detection should be done within 24 hours after installation.

Beim Bau von Autofensterfolien müssen eine Reihe von Schutzmaßnahmen getroffen werden, um die Sicherheit des Bauprozesses zu gewährleisten und das Erscheinungsbild und die Innenausstattung des Autos zu schützen. Hier sind einige wichtige Schutzmaßnahmen:

1. Bringen Sie Schutzpolster an der vorderen und hinteren Motorhaube und anderen Oberflächen an, um zu verhindern, dass die Lackoberfläche des Fahrzeugs während des Bauprozesses zerkratzt wird.

2. Verwenden Sie eine Einweg-Schutzhülle aus Kunststoff auf der Innenseite der Tür, um zu verhindern, dass die beim Anbringen der Fensterfolie versprühte Installationsflüssigkeit Flecken auf Tür, Boden und Sitzen hinterlässt.

3. Schützen Sie den Luftauslass der Klimaanlage während des Baus, um zu verhindern, dass Installationsflüssigkeit in den Auslass fließt, und vermeiden Sie so einen Kurzschlussausfall von Elektrogeräten und Lautsprechern im Auto aufgrund von Feuchtigkeit.


Darüber hinaus gibt es einige Anforderungen an die Fensterfolie selbst:

1. Die Fensterfolie sollte nicht zu viele Mängel aufweisen und die Folienoberfläche darf keine Falten, Blasen oder Kratzer aufweisen.

2. An der Oberseite des Rollfensters sollte ein kleiner Spalt von 1–2 mm freigehalten werden, um eine grobe Beobachtung zu erleichtern und nicht leicht zu bemerken.

3. Die Fensterfolie sollte den schwarzen Glasurbereich des Glasrahmens abdecken, um sicherzustellen, dass kein Licht nach außen dringt. Gleichzeitig sollte es keine Kantenverwerfungen geben, um ein schönes und einheitliches Erscheinungsbild zu erhalten.

Gemäß der Klassifizierungsmethode für Glasfolien der International Glass Film Association (IWFA) können Autoglasfolien in drei Grundtypen eingeteilt werden:

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1. Färbefolie (nicht reflektierend, bezieht sich auf die Reflexion von Infrarotstrahlen). Diese Art von Folie enthält keine Metallschicht und hat keine Funktion, Infrarotstrahlen zu reflektieren. Es verfügt über Blendschutz- und bestimmte Wärmedämmfunktionen. Es übernimmt vor allem die Rolle der Wärmedämmung, indem es Sonnenenergie aufnimmt und dann nach außen abgibt. Die Wärmeisolationseffizienz ist viel geringer als die von reflektierenden Folien.

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2. Die Verbundfolie aus Färbefolie und Vakuummetallisierungsfolie (Reflexion) wird in der Industrie als Hochleistungsfolie bezeichnet. Diese Hochleistungsfolie besteht normalerweise aus einer Schicht aus Bulk-Färbefolie und einer Schicht aus vakuumaluminisierter Folie. Im Vergleich zu nicht reflektierenden gefärbten Folien weist es eine höhere Durchlässigkeit für sichtbares Licht und eine höhere Wärmeisolationsrate auf. Allerdings streut die gefärbte Schicht das Licht, was zu visuellen Verzerrungen führt, sodass die Klarheit geringer ist. Unterschied.

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3. Magnetron-Sputter-Metallfilm (Reflexion), auch bekannt als reiner Metallfilm. Hierbei handelt es sich um eine Folie mit dem höchsten Stand der Glasfolien-Herstellungstechnologie. Dieser Film verwendet ein Magnetron-Sputterverfahren, um das Filmsubstrat mit einer Schicht verschiedener Metallionenbeschichtungen mit extrem hohem Infrarotreflexionsvermögen zu überziehen. Die verwendeten Metalle sind in der Regel Kupfer, Edelstahl, Nickel-Chrom-Legierung usw. Die Farbe der Folie wird vollständig durch die Metallbeschichtung bestimmt.

Die Neuentwicklung der Funktionen von Autofensterfolien führte in den 1960er Jahren zur ersten Generation der Beschichtungs- und Verbundtechnologie, die allgemein als Teepapierfolie bekannt ist. Die Hauptfunktion dieser Art von Folie besteht darin, Licht zu blockieren und grundsätzlich nicht zu isolieren. Genau wie eine Sonnenbrille kann sie nur die visuelle Lichtwahrnehmung verändern. Darüber hinaus ist die Klarheit des Teepapierfilms sehr gering und der Formaldehydgeruch ist sehr ernst. Es ist nur für Personenkraftwagen, Bagger usw. geeignet, die zum Einbau von Gütern verwendet werden.



Bei der zweiten Generation handelt es sich um eine durch ein Färbeverfahren gefärbte Folie. Diese Art von Membran wurde in den 1970er Jahren hergestellt. Bei den meisten derzeit auf dem Markt befindlichen Membranen handelt es sich um Tieffärbeverfahren. Bei der Tieffärbemethode werden Wärmeabsorber hinzugefügt, um die Infrarotstrahlen der Sonne zu absorbieren und so einen wärmeisolierenden Effekt zu erzielen. Da es auch sichtbares Licht absorbiert, ist die Durchlässigkeit für sichtbares Licht unzureichend. In Verbindung mit den Einschränkungen des Färbeprozesses selbst ist die Klarheit relativ schlecht. Ein weiterer großer Nachteil gefärbter Folien besteht darin, dass ihre Wärmedämmfunktion schnell nachlässt und sie leicht ausbleichen. Viele eingefärbte Folien verblassen nach anderthalb Jahren nicht nur, sondern sind auch nicht mehr isoliert und können sogar Blasen bilden, was das optische Erscheinungsbild stark beeinträchtigt. Dieser Folientyp eignet sich besonders für sofortige Wärmeisolationsprüfungen. 4S-Läden nutzen häufig die Eigenschaft gefärbter Folien, Wärme sofort zu absorbieren, um Kunden zu täuschen. Daher dürfen minderwertige gefärbte Folien, die von 4S-Läden verschickt werden, nicht angeboten werden.

There are several key technical aspects and knowledge related to safety glass film and explosion-proof film:

1. Weather Resistance Treatment: PET-based films can soften and deform at high temperatures (around +50°C) and may freeze and crack at low temperatures (around -10°C). However, with advanced weather resistance treatment, PET-based films can maintain their physical and chemical properties in a wide temperature range, from -70°C to +150°C. This makes them suitable for use in various environmental conditions.

2. Original Color Body Film Technology: These films use PET substrates made from original color body resin, ensuring that they do not fade over time. The even distribution of these resin molecules contributes to excellent visibility through the film.

3. Magnetron Sputtering Metal Coating Technology: Magnetron sputtering is a process that takes place in a large vacuum chamber with low pressure and inert gas. It involves bombarding various metal or alloy targets with charged ions, causing metal atoms to accumulate on the surface of a PET substrate. This process creates films with unique and stable colors, high levels of light transmission selectivity, and excellent sunlight control properties.

4. Pressure-Sensitive Adhesive Electromagnetic Treatment Layer Technology: The pressure-sensitive adhesive layer undergoes electromagnetic treatment. This layer responds to pressure even before it is applied to the glass, allowing the adhesive molecules to reorganize and form a protective layer. When pressure is applied, the adhesive rebounds, significantly increasing the strength of the glass. This feature provides impact resistance and helps prevent glass from shattering upon impact.

There are four main types of window films:

Dyed Films: These films originated in the 1930s and were primarily designed to block intense sunlight. Dyed films do not provide significant heat reduction and are mainly used for glare reduction.

Dyed Hybrid Films: Introduced in the 1960s, these films use deep-dyeing techniques and incorporate heat-absorbing agents to reduce heat. While they do provide some heat rejection, they also absorb visible light, leading to lower visible light transmission and reduced clarity. These films can deteriorate over time and tend to fade, but they are relatively affordable.

Vacuum Coated Films: Emerging in the early 1990s, vacuum-coated films use advanced technology to evaporate layers of metals onto a substrate to achieve heat rejection. While these films offer better and longer-lasting heat reduction compared to dyed films, they may compromise clarity and can have higher reflectivity, which can affect visibility.

Sputtered or Metalized Films: The most advanced type of window film, sputtered or metalized films, emerged in the late 1990s and have seen continuous technological improvements. These films utilize a process called sputtering, which evenly deposits metal particles like nickel, silver, titanium, or gold onto a high-tension PET substrate using a sophisticated multi-chamber, high-speed rotating system. Sputtered films provide excellent heat rejection, low reflectivity, and long-lasting color stability. They also maintain high clarity, making them the top choice for high-quality window films.

Misunderstanding 1: Choose dark film
When people choose solar film, in order to obtain better thermal insulation effect and good privacy, they often choose dark-colored solar film. In fact, ordinary "black paper membrane" and "tea paper" are not insulated at all. The thermal insulation effect of the membrane is determined by whether the membrane contains an insulation layer. Although the professional film is light in color, it can block 700 watts of heat under the scorching sun (solar radiation is 900 watts/square meter), while the low-end dark film can only block 300 watts of heat. At present, the films produced in Southeast Asia are basically glue-dyed films. Compared with the metallized films produced in the United States, just like black and white TVs compared to color TVs, the thermal insulation performance is very different.


Misunderstanding 2: Apply two layers of film
Applying two layers of film usually causes the following two problems. First of all, the adhesive design of the film is for sticking on glass, which cannot guarantee the perfect bond between the two layers of film. Secondly, the second film may immediately stick to the first film, leaving no time to squeeze out the moisture. Usually, applying two layers of film is easy to produce bubbles and water pockets, and these will become larger and more numerous over time. In fact, if you need to apply film to make your home darker, you can choose a film with low light transmittance instead of applying two layers.


Misunderstanding 3: Look for the infrared blocking rate
95% infrared blocking rate means 95% heat insulation? This is a wrong concept. Only 53% of the sun's radiant heat comes from infrared rays, another 3% comes from ultraviolet rays, and 44% comes from visible light. So even if a film can block 100% of infrared radiant heat, there is still 47% of solar radiant heat to deal with.